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Scratch Building the "Made Marion" Steam Shovel
by Henry Townsend
The Model:
I have a great fondness for large, awkward equipment that works hard and well
even though it looks like it shouldn't work at all. Consequently, the steam
shovels made by the Marion Steam Shovel Company of Marion, Ohio, as well as
those made by the Bucyrus Equipment Corp. have long held a spot in my heart.
Over the years, there have occasionally been plans for these beasts in various
modeling magazines. In addition, there have been models offered in HO/HOn3 (Rio
Grande Models) as a kit, or assembled specimens in Sn3 (PBL) and in On3
(Precision Scale, and Wiseman Model Services, I believe).
On the other hand, it is possible to make up a pretty respectable replica,
especially if you follow the line of building a model of a steam shovel that has
been dramatically re-worked and rearranged during its working life. I'm sure
that some rivet counters and rip track detectives can find fault with poor old
"Made Marion". If so, I hope that they'll turn to, and glue, solder, epoxy, and
screw together a more prototypical model that we all can admire.
My own view is that something is usually better than nothing (unless it's bird
droppings in the soup), so I decided to build an On30 steam shovel constructed
to:
1. create a model of a fascinating piece of equipment where there wasn't one
before
2. use an array of "mostly" prototype bits and pieces to create an overall
impression of a piece of equipment that could dig a hole or rust on a sidetrack
3. place heavy emphasis on handwork and creativity and minimum impact on
finances
4. provide me with a lot of pleasure and satisfaction.
5. be unique.
With these ideas in mind, I decided to use a minimum of commercially available
components, try new building and fabrication techniques to solve fabrication
problems, and also, build in enough inherent strength to withstand a lot of
handling during and after the old girl was completed. With the concept of
strength in mind, please note that there are at least four versions of a steam
shovel that can be made from the working drawings provided.
These include:
1. Fully roofed, fully enclosed sides and rear end
2. Roof and rear awning
3. Short roof/full roof and sliding door panels
No roof and no side or end covering
I chose to build a "sliding panel" version because I dreamed up the idea of
fabricating the sides out of strip wood reinforced with truss rods. Note that
there are two sets of tracks on the bottom side of the car body so that panels
can be opened or closed to improve ventilation as desired. This approach really
complicates construction so you may wish to simply use scribed siding for the
side and end panels. Another approach is to assume operations in southern swamps
where side panels are not really needed. In truth, however, every photo of a
steam shovel I have seen has shown side panels although some of them are fairly
skimpy. Note that the "sliding" panels are actually cemented in place.
Another parameter is the nature and construction of the roof. Since most steam
shovels were fired with wood or coal, a protective roof to prevent setting the
machine on fire is pretty much required. From that it follows that a sheet metal
roof would be the most practical approach.
Finally, although many steam shovels had squared off rear ends, it seems to me
that a more practical approach would be a "fireman's porch" with a small supply
of chopped wood or coal readily at hand.
A few words on materials: First, I want to mention God's gift to scale
modelers: Coffee Stirrers. These basswood strips are approximately 21' long, 9"
wide and 3" thick in one forty-eighth scale. They take stain, oil-based paint
and acrylic-based paint beautifully. A box of 3K stirrers should cost about
$5-$6.from a restaurant supply company. I use them to plank ships, build ammo
and K-ration boxes for military models, and for structures, car loads, etc., as
well as railroad cars.
Throughout this article I'll provide a materials list of other odd ball items
and materials. Let me stress that if something doesn't appeal to you or work for
you, substitute whatever does. Also, don't be afraid to rip out something that
doesn't please you. The whole idea is to build what you like.
All equipment is a collection of sub-assemblies joined together to create a
unit. Even a lawn rake is composed of various metal and wood parts joined with
metal fasteners. The steam shovel represented here is composed of the following
sub-assemblies:
Car body (base) -Flatcar, Trucks, and coupler(s)
Weather Shelter (car sides, roof, back, porch
Outriggers
Steam Boiler-Steam Engine/Hoist Machinery
"A" frames
Lift Arm (boom) with Base Plate, and Tackle
Dip Stick/Bucket Assembly
CAR BODY
If you choose to build the version illustrated (simulated sliding side panels)
the following steps apply. If you prefer a conventional enclosure, go to the
section labeled "A" below AFTER reading through this section AND finishing the
steps below as appropriate.
1. Remove the trucks, mounting screws and brake gear and couplers from the
Bachmann flat car. Place these parts in a zip-top baggie and include a file card
or paper scrap that lists the parts. Carefully mark off a distance of one scale
foot (1/4") from the actual edge of each side of the car. Do NOT measure from
the edge of the stake pockets. Draw or scribe a line parallel to the actual edge
of each side of the car and cut off the 1/4" section using a model saw or hot
knife. Truss Rods go too. Use a sanding block or mill saw to level and finish
the edges.
Measure in to a point equidistant between the truck mounts. Cut a 1/2" long by
1/4" wide slot in the deck (See Photos). This opening will accommodate the drive
chain assembly below the car.
Prepare two car side channels 30 feet long (7- 5/8") from Plastruct WHITE 1/4"
wide U-Channel stock (Use the white stock-the gray colored stock is ABS and is
difficult to glue to styrene). Cement the flat sides of the pieces to the sides
of the car body and flush with the car end that has the brake wheel /shaft
fitting.
The channel pieces should extend 6'(1.5") beyond the opposite end of the
flatcar. Remove the brake wheel shaft casting with a knife, file or by sanding.
2. Cut strip wood or styrene to appropriate length to deck the area between the
channels (Accuracy check: The flat car is just at 8' wide before cutting; The
channels add back just at 1'. The modified car body is therefore 7' wide
including the added deck strips.)
3. Cut four (4) sections of 1/16" wide white Plastruct U-Channel 30' (7-1/2")
long. Make two pairs of door tracks by cementing two pieces of channel together
per track set When the track sets are thoroughly dry, cement them to the car
sides, open side UP. That is, you should now have an 8' wide flat car with a "W"
shaped double track on each side.
4. Cut a section of Plastruct 1/4" wide U-Channel stock 6' long (1-1/2" long)
and cement it flush with the channel ends on the extended end of the car body.
No modification is required for the opposite end. (Leave the endplate in place.)
Set the car body aside for the cement to set-up completely. Probably at least
one of the channels has popped loose by now, so re-cement it in place.
5. By now you should have located two toy motor cycles equipped with chrome
plated sprocket/chain components Carefully remove the chain/sprocket units and
arrange them so that the large sprockets are next to each other and the chain
small sprockets face away toward the ends of the car body. Place the car body
bottom-side up, arrange the sprockets so that they are in the 1/2"X1/4" opening,
prop them up vertically and cement them in place with cyanoarcrylate cement
(Crazy Glue). (Refer to the photographs of the bottom of the car body).
BE CAREFUL TO POSITION EVERYTHING SO THAT YOU DON'T CEMENT THE CARBODY TO THE
WORK SURFACE. It is difficult and frustrating to chisel the assembly loose! I
strongly recommend using a gel rather than a liquid form of cement as it allows
a bit of time to re-position wayward parts. After initial set-up, move the
entire assembly to a quiet part of the work bench and let it cure at least
overnight.
NOTE: before final cementing of the sprocket/chain assembly in place, fix it
temporarily in place with carpenters white glue, and place the trucks in place
to make sure that the assembly clears the track with the trucks in place. Adjust
as necessary and then use the quick-setting cement to finish the job. (You can
trim off the top of the sprockets a bit if necessary). Put the trucks back in
the baggie
6. The final construction set for the car body involves installing anchor points
for attachment of the Car Sides. Refer to the drawing that shows a side view of
the model. Note the points at which the three vertical beams of the Car Sides
attach to the Car Body. Six standard Code 100 rail joiners are required. Using
pliers, press the rail joiners flat. Drill a 2-56 size hole in the center of
each rail joiner half way to its' middle. Use the pliers to bend the rail joiner
into an "L" shape, flat side on the outside of the "L". Cut away 1/8" section of
the "U" channel double track at the points on the sides of the Car Body where
the columns attach and cement an "L" piece in place so that the portion with a
hole is on top. (See Drawing) NOTE: Use Gorilla Glue or epoxy.
WEATHER SHELTER - Car Sides, Roof, Back Porch
A Discussion of Conventional Car Body Sides Construction
If you prefer to simplify the job, especially if you are having trouble finding
a suitable engine/gear assembly, (see Boiler/Eng. Sec.) sides can be made from
scribed wood or styrene sheet.
* Sheet styrene or scribed wood - Cut side panels to the dimensions on the
drawings, and cut/frame out windows and doors. Most photos show a window near
the rear of each side approximately half way between the top and bottom of the
side. A large sliding door is usually installed approximately 2-4 feet from the
front of the car side. The door appears to have been approximately 7' high by 6'
wide. Cut an opening in the
* car side, install the door and add a strip wood track above and below the
door, or cement the door onto the car side in the closed position
* Styrene/wood single strips.- Prepare a frame of 1/8"X1/8" strip wood or
styrene by positioning and cementing a front, center, and rear vertical beam to
an upper and lower beam. "Plank" the side out of individual boards. Cement the
completed sections on AFTER the internals are installed on the car
* Construct a rear panel with an upper and lower cross member, planked as the
sides. A rear door, sliding or side-hinged, closed or partially opened is
recommended.
If you chose to take this approach, you will be spared the excitement of making
up and installing the truss rods for the car sides, but to me that's part of the
appeal of good old "Made" Marion. It's up to you.
Sides the "Fun" Way
The sides illustrated represent a frame kept in alignment by a combination of
vertical beams and diagonal truss rods. There are three vertical beams per side.
The beams also support the roof and the rear beams have the rear panel of the
enclosure tied to them. Cut six sections of 1/8"X1/8" balsa or basswood stock
2.1/8" long (8'-6" in 1/4" scale). Cut 2 sections of the same size stock 5" long
(20' in 1/4" scale). Cement two of the vertical beams to two of the horizontal
beams to make two rectangles. Cement the third vertical beams half-way between
the end beams. Use carpenters glue, Ambroid Cement or some other strong wood
cement. NOTE: As seen in the picture of sub-assemblies, there is NO bottom beam
on the sides-only a top beam and 3 vertical braces.
From paper index card, .005 styrene sheet, or an aluminum can make the following
parts. Using the triangular pattern in the drawings, cut 12 triangular shapes
using tin snips, or heavy household shears. Cement a triangular shape in each of
the four corners of the two rectangles. Cement a triangle point down on the top,
point up on the bottom of the center beam where it joints the horizontal beams.
NOTE-
Cement the triangles, now called gussets, on the INSIDE surface of the side
frames, i.e., when finished, the sides of the steam shovel will have sliding
outside panels and truss rod/gussets inside facing the boiler/engine assembly.
If, as may well happen, you have two sides, both with gussets on the same side,
turn one side around, and you'll be in good shape. Take a break.
Locate your long-lost spool of insulated solid core copper wire, approximately
1/16" thick. Mine is labeled: H. O. FLEX-1. Measure the distance from the center
of the gusset at each end of the side frame to the center of the gusset in the
middle of the opposite side (top or bottom). The distance should be equal. Using
side cutting pliers or snips, cut eight sections of wire. Pull the insulation
off each section. Use a #11 model knife/blade to cut three 1/4" long sections of
insulation. Slide one of the sections back onto the wire and center it, and then
slide one section onto each end. Make eight wire pieces this way. Cement a
section of wire from opposite corners of the side frame with ACC, Ambroid Cement
or Gorilla Glue.
NOTE-
Position the center insulation pieces so that they are above or below each
other. These are your turnbuckles and you couldn't adjust them if they were on
top of each other.
Be consistent in spacing the turnbuckles, i.e., put upper turnbuckles above the
crossing point and lower turnbuckles below on both side sections of the two
sides.
Go back to your coffee stirrer lumberyard. Select enough straight pieces with
common thickness to create 26 sections, 2-3/16" long. (8' 9" long in 1/4"
scale). Decide if you want your steam shovel to be: RED (Fresh or Faded),
NATURAL WOOD (Fresh or Faded), Any Other Color. Paint or stain the pieces
accordingly. When the pieces are thoroughly dry, assemble two panels of 4
pieces, and one of 5 pieces per side by cementing them together with carpenters
glue. When the cement is thoroughly dry, Cut enough stock to make horizontal
braces, two for each panel, paint these pieces in the same or contrasting
colors, and cement them horizontally across the vertical panels
NOTE-
The side panels will be mounted so that two panels are seated in one bottom
track and the other ones seated in the other. Fasten the cross braces close to
center low on two panels, and high center on the opposite panel so the braces
clear each other.
When you have figured all this positioning out, review the pictures, consider
the position and spacing of the boiler, cylinders, boom gear system, operator's
deck and other stuff, and decide how to position the side panels so that they
"hide and seek" these components. When you decide on the best arrangement,
cement the sliding panels to the frames. Cement them flush with the top of the
frame, 1/16" projections below so that the bottom frame beam is flush with car
deck and the side panels rest in the tracks.
DON'T CEMENT THE SIDE PANELS TO THE CARBODY NOW! You have a lot of work to do on
the boiler, transmission, etc. that is almost impossible to do well if the sides
are in the way.
Back Porch
If you wish to add an extension to the rear of your model it is easy to do. It
also enhances realism by providing a handy work area for the boiler operator
behind the boiler with room for a few hours supply of coal or firewood.
Following the pattern on the drawings, create a rectangle 8' wide X 4' long (2"
X 1' in 1/4" scale) from aluminum stock or .005" styrene. Then cut a strip 5/8"
wide (2.5' in 1/4"scale) long enough to make a side panel for two sides and the
rear. Bend this side strip around the deck panel and cement the two pieces
together. When the cement has cured, cut two strips of 1/4" wide styrene
Plastruct "U" channel or "I" beam 1.5" long (6' in 1/4" scale). Cement these
pieces to the bottom of the back porch on edge (flanges up/down) centered and
far enough apart to cement a Kaydee coupler box (or equivalent) between them.
Allow to dry thoroughly.
Outriggers
Because steam shovels were frequently operated on narrow roadbeds with steeply
sloping or unstable road beds, it was necessary to provide supplemental lateral
stability. Also, the sideways movement of the boom/bucket assembly destabilized
the unit even on level ground. Outriggers were needed to prevent the shovel from
tipping over. Permanently mounted outriggers that could be swung out and
adjusted forward or backward to stabilize the unit as required were the most
common approach to this issue.
In addition, "strong points" were installed near each end of the car body on
each side to allow chains or wire rope to be attached to trees, rocks, or other
anchoring points to stabilize the equipment. The installation of outriggers
improves the appearance (and stability) of the model.
Construction-The outrigger system is composed of a lateral support that
runs under the bottom of the car, and two supports which are composed of a
baseplate, elevating shaft, and a leveling wheel fitted to a leg or outrigger.
The baseplate and the leveling wheel are made up from a set of clothes snaps,
the shaft is a 0-90 machine screw, the leg/outrigger is a section of plastic
picnic spoon or fork, and the support frame that passes under the car and up
close to each side is a section of .013" brass wire. A section of plastic tubing
(Plastruct 1/16" tubing or similar) is cemented securely to the inner end of the
leg so that it can be slipped over the wire frame allowing the outrigger to
swing 180 degrees along the car side.
Prepare all components as follows:
* Cut and bend a section of .013 Brass rod to the shape and dimensions shown in
the outrigger detail drawing. Cement this lateral support across the car body at
the point indicated on the overall car body drawing
using Gorilla Glue.
* Cut two sections of equal length from the plastic tableware stock and cement a
section of 1/16" tubing to the car body end. Let the parts cure thoroughly and
then slip them onto the lateral support verticals. Drill out (by hand) if
necessary. Drill out two sections of tubing large enough to pass a length of
0-90 screw through them. (NOTE: Cotton swabs sold under the trade name
"Sentinel", marketed at Dollar General Stores are a perfect material for these
end castings as an alternative to the tubing.)
* File the inside snap portions flat (the ends that snap together). The "male"
end, which has oblong openings, is the baseplate; the "female" end, which has a
rim and a spring inside, is the leveling wheel. Use a pair of pliers to remove
the spring. Snip or saw two lengths of the 0-90 screw to the length shown to
make the shaft. Remove the screw head as well. Slip the shaft through the
outside tubing of each leg and cement the shafts in place with cyanoarcrylate
glue. Use a needle file to open the holes in the center of the base plate and
the leveling wheel big enough to accept the shaft and cement them in place on
the shaft with cyanoarcrylate glue.
* Slip the completed outrigger legs over the vertical uprights of the lateral
supports. They should swing freely along the sides of the carbody, fore and aft.
Remove them and put them in the baggie with the trucks and truck screws for safe
keeping. (NOTE: When the model is complete cut a number of 1/8"X1/8" wood strips
approximately 1" long for baulks or support beams to be placed under the
outriggers. These should be stained varying shades of gray and have "chewed up"
areas in their centers. They should be placed on a flat car along with tools,
spare chain, and other supplies. Another project involves building a flatcar
with an old tender body for water and fuel as well as these materials.
Carbody Roof
Easy Way- Using the roof drawing, cut five strips of 1/32" thick by 1/8" wide
styrene or strip wood to lengths shown. Cut six strips of the same material to
the width shown and cement the cross members to the length wise "timbers". When
the resulting frame is thoroughly dry, bend it around a concentrated soup can.
(NOTE: If you are using strip wood, moisten it lightly before bending the
Frame). Cut a rectangle from 0.10" styrene for the roof cover. Remember to cut
out a square or rectangular opening for the exhaust stack and another opening at
the front of the roof to clear the boom. (NOTE: Some versions of steam shovels
had "V" shaped fronts. If you like this look better, change the roof shape
accordingly. If you take this approach, make sure the boom angle/side height
allows a proper angle of the boom. I really think the front cut out is easier to
manage).
Harder Way- You can use strips of tissue bonded to the roof with white glue and
water to simulate tarpaper or canvas. If you do, be sure to add a spark arrester
to the boiler exhaust stack. A much more interesting model results if you use
Campbell Co. pre-formed aluminum siding. Cut the siding into 2' X 4' 1/4" scale
sections and cement them in place beginning from the lower edge of the roof. For
accuracy, keep flipping the roof over to align the panels with the longitudinal
and transverse frame members that such metal panels would be nailed to. Also,
make sure that each corrugated panel overlaps the one below it.
NEAT TRICK#1: Cut two longitudinals from 1/32" thick X 1/8" wide. Cement One to
each outer edge of the roof just far enough in allow them to fit snugly against
the sides. If you have kept close to the dimensions as you built the roof and
car sides, you have a removable roof and automatic fascia strips.
NEAT TRICK#2: Painting with Built-in Weathering. If you can find them, the
following three acrylic paint colors made by Apple Barrel Colors, Plaid
Enterprises, Inc., Norcross, GA will allow you to do some of the best painting
and weathering you have ever seen: 20504 Black, 20561 Orange, and 20577, Barn
Red. On a scrap piece of plastic or heavy cardboard squirt a dollop of black
paint about the size of a quarter. Squeeze a similar size amount of orange right
next to it. Use a 1/4" wide soft brush to mix the two together, leaving some
black and orange on the edge of the mixing area. Paint the mixture onto the top
of the roof. Mix a touch of water into the paint as you go. A cruddy, rusted,
weathered finish emerges as the paint dries. If you decided to clad the roof in
canvas or tarpaper, use a mixture of black and a trace of orange and red to get
a dusty, sooty roof. color. Use Barn Red on the car body sides and end. Apply
the red to bare wood, and a touch of water to expose grain and imperfections.
Use a heavy touch of red to cover cement on joints, etc. When the red is nearly
dry, use a very wet brush touched with red and black to wash the finished
surface. As the surface dries, work in some streaks of the straight and mixed
colors, let the surface dry thoroughly, and then spray on a coat of Testor's
Dullcote or similar flattening agent.
BOILER/ENGINE ASSEMBLY
There are two options for fabrication of these integrated components. These are:
1. Scratch building the boiler assembly and "kit bashing" the cylinders, base
and connecting rods and the eccentric wheels fitted to the gear drive assembly
2. Utilizing a small HO gauge locomotive boiler assembly such as a Mantua, AHM,
LifeLike, etc. 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 with:
A. The cab removed
B. Cylinder set reversed so that the valve gear and connecting rods can be
attached to the eccentric wheels of the drive gear assembly
Each approach has certain benefits and liabilities but both approaches provide a
satisfactory result.
The plans show the first approach whose main benefit is close fidelity to the
prototype. This method also allows the position of the steam turret, smoke
stack, firebox door , injectors, whistle, etc. to be located per pre-planning.
Also, 1/4" castings can be used.
In this method, the firebox is made from a .012" styrene sheet cut to the
pattern shown, embossed with rivets using a ponce wheel or clock gear fitted
with a handle and rolled to shape. The firebox is then cemented to a heavy
cylinder. (I used the core of a roll adding adding machine tape.) I covered the
front 3/4" of the boiler with a piece of index card to create the smokebox
section. The rest of the boiler with covered with two layers of index card to
make it the proper thickness. The smokebox face was made by making a mold of a
brass smokebox face casting using MOLD BUILDER Liquid Latex Rubber made by
Environmental Technology, Inc. I bought this product at a local craft store.
When the mold was thoroughly cured I "cast" the part from a completely mixed
5-minute epoxy. Obviously, you can use a part that fits the boiler instead of
making a copy if you wish.
The firebox back was made from three pieces of 1/16" styrene sheet. I cemented
the pieces together and sanded a rounded edge around the rear of the pieces.
Prior to cementing the pieces together I embossed "staybolts" on the rear panel.
I then cemented the rear panel into the firebox sanded everything to shape, and
added a Precision Scale firebox door with a foot pedal casting into place on the
firebox rear panel.
I completed the firebox and boiler component by adding a section of 1/4" square
brass stock as a front boiler support, a smoke stack made up of a 9mm automatic
cartridge casing (primer side down), an ancient HO steam turret casting, and a
set of Cal-Scale brass casting injectors, one on either side of the boiler. All
of these parts were cemented, one at a time, using Gorilla Glue. TIP: Gorilla
Glue dries SLOWLY, and drips a lot while curing; it also EXPANDS as it cures. I
find that placing a blob on a piece of clean scrap like a cut up credit card and
allowing it to partially set-up allows a small portion to be applied to the
pieces effectively. Be sure to check the cemented parts frequently. They delight
in slipping out of position and then curing PERMANENTLY out of the desired
position.
The cylinders were made up like this. I made a mold from MOLD BUILDER of both
sides of a white metal industrial cylinder in a set of scrap/junk sold by SS
Limited. I then made a copy of the cylinder sides and cemented them together
with Gorilla Glue. This copy had the exposed internal piston rod on the same
side, so I simply turned the casting upside down so that the opening with the
piston rod showing was on the outside, cemented the two cylinders to a rectangle
of brass stock with Gorilla Glue and the Boiler/
Cylinder set was complete.
Immediately in front of the cylinder set on the deck of the flat car is a 4' 6"
wide X 4' long platform composed of 9" wide planks on a frame of 3 - 6" beams.
Three sets of control levers are mounted in the center of this platform. An
operator controlled the swing of the boom and raised and lowered it from this
position. (See Drawings). I used a 1/4" casting of a Johnson bar for the center
control lever. I made two more control
levers from plastic stock and a section of brass wire. When they were cemented
in place and painted black, they made a convincing control console. If you
prefer, buy three Johnson bar castings and use them for your model's Boom
controls. NOTE: Cement the beams parallel to the Car Body, and cement the
control levers positioned between the beams.
"A" FRAMES
Beginning with these components, some innovative building techniques and
materials will be introduced. Despite their unusual nature, they DO work if you
follow these suggestions carefully. On the other hand, if you see a way to use
alternative methods and materials, feel free to do so.
After studying photos of the prototype equipment and other models, I decided
that the "hairpin" steel beams that bolt to the car deck and support the
boom/dipstick/bucket assembly could accurately be fabricated from HO Gauge
rails. Also, it would be possible to mount the rail sections strongly to the
flat car body using a combination of rail joiners and .090 nuts and bolts. On
the working drawings you will note drawings of the front and back frame
components. Here is the way I made up the two components required:
* Remove the rails from two sections of Code 100 snap track. (Use a razor saw to
cut down the middle of the plastic ties).
* Grip a piece of rail in the pliers and heat it in a gas ring to red hot. Let
it cool in ambient air. Prepare three more pieces the same way. When the pieces
are cool, place one over the drawing, web side down (the bottom of the rail
section), and, using the pliers bend the rail to match the shape of the drawing.
NOTE: bend your way down the rail section so that the opposite end is the only
place that needs to be cut off.
* You should end up with two sets of "A" frames, one front and one back.
* Install rail joiners on rear ends of each rail section just as you would to
join track sections together. Use pliers to mash the rail joiners flat.
* Drill holes in each rail joiner on the end that will be fitted to the deck of
the flat car. NOTE: Position the hole approximately half way between the rail
end and the end of the rail joiner.
* Following the drawings, cut a piece of brass shim stock as a spreader and
solder it between the top of the beams to create "hairpin" "A" Frames. NOTE: I
used a HO Gauge brass casting of an Elesco feed water heater because I had a
couple on hand. You can use a similar fitting. Also, Gorilla Glue can be used as
an alternative to soldering.
* Refer to the drawing to locate the position of each "A" Frame on the flat car
body. Mark the locations and drill the necessary four holes in the flat car deck
to allow you to bolt the frames to the deck with the bolt inserted from the top
and the nut underneath the car. NOTE: Position the frames so that they are
aligned evenly on each side and meet together behind the Boom/Dipstick
Assemblies. Check for interference with the Boiler, Hoist Assembly and
Operator's Platform. Don't attach the "A" Frames at this point. Instead, take a
break!
LIFT ARM (BOOM), BASE PLATE, STRESS RODS
The materials and construction materials involved are pretty unusual, so this
section will begin with a "Shopping List" of recommended supplies and materials.
ITEM MFG. - Supplier REMARKS
* Block and Tackle Model Railways/Model Expo,Inc. Convenient Bucket Suspender
* Sew-on Snaps Dritz (or similar), 80-1-1,3,4 Conversion Source, Pulleys
* Disposable lighter Bic, etc. Source of Drive Wheel
* 3/4" X !" Gears (2) Elec. Appliances, toys, etc. Drive System, Bucket Hoist
* Flat Washer-1-1/8" Hardware Store Base Plate, Lift Arm
* Flat Gear - 1-3/16" Toy, Clock, Appliance Drive Gear under Base Plate
* Metal Eye Glasses Prescription/Sun Glasses Frames Only (No Lenses)
* Plastic Picnic Cutlery Various Boom Side Beams
* Black Plastic Hot Cup Lid (2 Minimum) Burger King Boom End Components
* 1/2"X1/2"X1/4" Styrene or wood block Boom Hinge Block
* 1/16" Steel or Brass Wire (10") Stress Rods
The Lift Arm (Boom) is composed of two parallel beams mounted at its' base to a
knuckle or Hinge Block mounted on a Base Plate/Drive Gear, which is mounted on
the front end of the Flat Car. The front of the Boom has a double sheave Pulley
from which the earth moving bucket is suspended. There are two additional single
sheave Pulleys mounted on the top of the Boom. Steel bars (Stress Rods) are
connected on either side of the Boom and are fastened to the "A" Frames.
The Dip Stick passes between the beams of the Boom, The Bucket is fastened to
the front end of the Dip Stick. A Rack is mounted on the bottom of the Dip
Stick. The Rack runs back and forth over a Drive Gear mounted approximately in
the center of the Boom. The Bucket is suspended from a continuous length of
chain, which runs through the Pulleys on the boom into a Fairlead (round tube)
which passes through the Base Plate.
The chain runs to a drive system under the Flat Car. (Not actually installed on
the model).
The Boom is built up as follows:
* The two parallel beams are prepared from four plastic picnic forks or spoons.
Select a design with a flat base that tapers to a smaller diameter point just
below where the utensil flares into a fork or bowl shape. Also, select an "I"
beam shaped utensil so that your beams will have a "I" shape in section. Cut off
the fork end just below the flare. File or sand off the base (big end) of the
two tapered beam sections so that they fit flush against each other. Make sure
that the most pronounced top and bottom cap shape is on the outside of the beam.
Cement the two tapered beam shapes wide end to wide end. You should have one
beam shaped component that is widest in the middle and tapered on each end.
Repeat the process to end up with two beams.
Make sure that the beams are both flat, and will be parallel to each other when
assembled into the Boom. Cut out four pieces of 0.10" pieces of styrene sheet,
emboss rivets around the edges of each piece and also emboss an "X" line of
rivets across them. Sand to final shape and cement these brace plates on either
side of the beam where it joins at its center.
Make sure that the disposable lighter is COMPLETELY free of fluid. Take it apart
carefully and remove the round, gear like striker wheel (the part that rotates
against the flint). (Editor's Note: DO NOT FOLLOW THE AUTHOR'S INSTRUCTION HERE.
The risk of residual fluid is just too great. Instead, use the a lighter to
match a similar gear from a toy, Plastruct, or Western Scale Models gear
assortment). Drill a hole in the center of the brace plate on each beam, Shape
with a file until the striker wheel axle ends fit snugly in the holes. Put the
striker wheel aside, but keep it close at hand.
Drill, file and sand the Boom Hinge Block to the shape shown (flat on the
bottom, straight on the sides and curved top.) The opening through the sides
should be 2-56 size. Drill a 2-56 size hole through the bottom end of each beam
so that the beams can be fitted to the Boom Hinge Block. Cement the striker
wheel into the hole in the center of the brace plate, make sure it is
perpendicular to the Beam and let it dry thoroughly.
When the Beam/Striker Wheel assembly has thoroughly dried, cut a 2-56 size bolt
to a length long enough to pass through both Beams, the Boom Hinge Block and
allow a 2-56 nut to be attached snugly to it's bottom end. Apply cement to the
unsecured end of the Striker Wheel, and fix it to the remaining Beam. Place the
bottom of the Beam against the Boom Hinge Block, run the 2-56 bolt through the
two Beams and the Boom Hinge Block, and thread the 2-56 nut finger tight onto
it.
* Examine the Black Plastic Hot Cup Lid. Note it resembles a "Smiling Face" when
the lift tab is positioned at its' top. The area that resembles the center of a
mouth is used to fabricate the top end portion of the Boom. Carefully cut out
the "canoe" shaped portion of this area from two Lids. Cut around the shape so
that edges remain. Cut the piece in half so that four shapes, each with a
pointed end results. Drill a 1/32" hole accurately spaced in the center of the
pointed area, 1/8" in from the tip. Make up two pieces by cementing two halves
of the shape together and then cement one set on each of the two beams, (HELPFUL
HINT: Obtain several Lids so that you have spares to work with as cutting and
drilling the very thin plastic is tricky as is cementing the halves together and
to the beams; Area involved is part of the lift tab which can be popped out of
lid. This makes cutting and shaping easier).
* Cement the Flat Gear to the Flat Washer so that its' teeth project around the
outside of the Washer. Cement the Flat Washer to the Boom Hinge Block using
Gorilla Glue or epoxy cement. Wipe away excess cement before it dries and check
frequently as cement cures to ensure that the Boom Assembly dries perpendicular
to the Washer/Base. NOTE: Re-examine the Flat Car Body front end to verify that
all traces of the coupler pocket top and the brake wheel base have been
COMPLETELY removed so that the Boom will fit true and level when it is attached
to the car later.
* Prepare four Pulley Stand side pieces from the ends of Plastic Picnic Utensils
(2 sets). Be sure to cut and file/sand these pieces to the same height, and
drill 1/32" holes in the center of each piece, 1/8" from the top. NOTE: It is
easier to measure, mark, and drill the holes before cutting the pieces from the
utensils.
* Preparation of Pulley/Sheave Assemblies-Remove a Dress Snap, size 80-1-1 from
the sales card. Unsnap the parts and file a flat surface on each protruding
center knob. Drill a 1/32" opening through both knobs. Cement the flattened
knobs together, prepare three of these assemblies.
* Cement a set of Pulley Stands to the upper Boom sides at the two locations
shown on the drawings. When the Stands are completely dry, place a Pulley
Assembly between the sides of each Stand and slip a section of 1/32" wire
through the Stand Sides and the Pulley as an axle. Place a dot of Crazy Glue on
each side of the axle and snip off with a side cutting pliers.
* Locate a Pulley Assembly between the tips of the top of the Boom, insert a
piece of 1/32" wire of the proper length and cement with Crazy Glue.
* Place a dot of Gorilla Glue or epoxy on the Boom Base directly behind the Boom
Hinge Block, and attach a section of 1/8" tubing. (NOTE: A 3/16" long section of
plastic coffee stirrer is recommended. Place the tube upright / vertical. It
will serve as the channel or fairlead through which the hoist chain runs from
under the car up the Boom to the Bucket)
* Stress rods-These are the two braces that run from the "A" Frames top section
to the end of the Boom. Their function is to distribute the stress of the weight
of the Bucket throughout the weight bearing structure of the steam shovel. The
Stress Rods (2) themselves are formed from 1/16" brass rod stock. The "eyes" on
each end of these pieces are simply bent with pliers. However, the base plates
into which they fit are unusual. Wire or metal frame eyeglasses have hinges
welded or soldered to them to which the side-pieces or temples are fastened with
rivets, screws, or nuts and bolts. They are considerably easier to use than what
can be scratch built. (Also, most people have several old pairs of broken
eyeglasses in desk drawers, etc. around the house.
Use a pair of strong side cutting pliers to snip off the hinge portion of the
fittings and epoxy them to the end of the boom and the upper end of the "A"
Frames. Cut two pieces of the stress rod stock long enough to join the two sets
of components, including the "eyes" on either end. The Stress Rods are installed
after the Boom and "A" Frames are installed and lined up.
Note that there is a small wire brace on each side of the top of the Boom. The
braces on either side of the Boom are fashioned from the wire pads that support
eyeglasses frames against the nose. Snip them off, remove the pads, straighten
the ends of the wire and cement one of the resulting fittings onto each side of
the boom. When the fittings are dry, cut a piece of wire to run between the boom
and the fittings on each side and cement it in place.
* Drive Gears- The Boom Assembly is completed by adding the gears that move the
Dipstick up and down. Search your supply of gears for two approximately 3/4"wide
X 1/8" thick identical gears. Cement a gear securely on the outside of the Boom
Assembly in line with the Striker Wheel. (The Gears and the Striker Wheel should
appear to be mounted on a common axle that runs through the Boom). Locate a spur
gear approximately 1/4" in width, mount to an axle and cement it to the top of
the Boom right behind the Gears/Striker Wheel parts. The axle for this part
should extend approximately1/16" on either side of the Boom.
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The Dipstick/Bucket Assembly
* Check your plastic utensil collection for a pair of spoons or forks that look
like "I" beams. They may be slightly tapered, but it is best if they have
parallel edges lengthwise. If nothing looks good, use two pieces of Plastruct
(white) 1/4" wide by 3" long "I" beam or the shape with one side flat. Put these
parts aside.
The Rack- A critical component, the rack is a nuisance to make, but there are
some possible shortcuts. The rack section required is only 1- l/2" - 1 3/4"
long. I used a part from a plastic toy that had a rack shaped strip to pull a
friction motor. You can file a series of teeth into one edge of a 1/8" wide by
1/16" thick strip of basswood or plastic. You can cement several thicknesses of
the serrated metal edge of a waxed per carton. Whatever approach you choose,
drill three holes 3/4" apart, beginning 3/4" from the bottom of the two beams
and the rack. Cement the rack to the bottom of one beam, align the holes, and
cement on the other beam. Press a common pin through each of the holes and snip
off the projecting pointed end flush with the beam side. Place a small dot of
carpenters glue over the cut off pin. It will dry to form a simulated rivet head
opposite the pinhead on the other side. NOTE: Make sure that the rack is thin
enough so that the entire Dipstick assembly will slide inside the Beam.
* The Bucket- I was inspired to begin this entire project by finding a suitable
bucket on a child's toy in a Dollar Store. I strongly suggest that you look for
a similar shortcut. Believe me, you will have plenty of time to find a suitable
bucket while you're building all the other stuff. If you don't find a suitable
bucket, it can be built since it is basically a rectangle with side and bottom
reinforcing strips.
* Suspension Frame-This is nothing more than a section of Code 100 railroad
track. bent into a "U" shape. A #68 drill is used to drill a hole in the center
of the frame. The hook on the bottom of the "ScRRatch Stuff" Block & Tackle is
passed through the hole in the frame and squeezed shut with pliers.
* Chain-As soon as I decided to build this model I started looking for suitable
chain. I found chain in ship model sections of various model catalogs, and
railroad model suppliers like Walthers. However, the best source of chain
available is the costume jewelry displays in discount houses, flea markets, and
garage sales. I chose chain with round loops, approximately 16 loops to the
inch. Two things to remember are:
1. The chain drive used on this type of equipment had unique sprockets and
specially shaped sheaves in the pulleys.
2. The model requires only 2 pieces of chain: one piece comes out of the Base
Plate at the rear of the Boom, up the Boom, over the Pulleys, down through the
Block and Tackle, back to the Pulley on the end of the Boom and then down to the
Bucket. The other section of Chain runs from under the Operator's Platform,
through a Pulley on the Deck, around the Drive Gear on the Base of The Boom,
Back around another Pulley on the Deck and is cemented back under the Operator's
Platform.
Only about 24" of Chain (or less) is required. Of course, 8'-10' of chain laying
around in the way of things and underfoot always looks good on a model of this
type.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
You should now have a pretty impressive collection of sub-assemblies scattered
around your work area. Before they start to creep away or get broken up, start
putting them together. Here is the sequence I recommend:
Locate the Sub-Assembly positions, and verify that none of them block or
obstruct other components. Compare components, photos, and drawings and make
adjustments.
Car Body, Boiler, Cylinder Set, Gear System, Engine Operator's Platform
Position the Boiler on the rear of the Car Body. The firebox should be even with
the back of the deck with the firebox door extending about 1/16" past the edge
of deck. Mark the position of the Boiler on the Car Body using a mechanical
pencil. Also mark the position of the rectangular front boiler support. Cement
the centered Cylinder Set so that its' brass strip base plate touches the back
of the Boiler front support. MAKE SURE THAT THE CYLINDER SET IS POSITIONED SO
THAT THE PISTON RODS FACE FORWARD.
Cement the Boiler Assembly in place. Cement the Gear System in place with the
eccentric wheels on the REAR of this assembly.. Fabricate connecting rods to
reach from the Cylinder Set crossheads to the eccentric wheels on the Gear
System. NOTE: Make sure that the connecting rods are attached so that they are
positioned with one fastened to the top of one eccentric wheel, and the other to
the rear center of the other (Look at their relative position on one of your
steam locomotives). Finally, cement the Engine Operator's Platform in front of
the Gear System.
"A" Frame Assembly
Test fit the Front and Rear "A" Frames. They should straddle components on the
deck of the Car Body and provide necessary clearance from the location of the
Car Sides. They can be bent easily as needed. Make sure to keep them straight
aligned over the mounting holes, and then bolt them in place with the bolt heads
on top and the nuts under the Car Body.
Boom /Base Plate Assembly
Test fit the Base Plate. Approximately 1/8" of the Base Plate should project
over the front end of the Car Body. Pencil in the correct location of the Base
Plate. Two Pulley Assemblies are required on the Car Body Deck, approximately
halfway between the Engine Operator's Platform and the Case Plate. Drill two
parallel holes in the deck, prepare two single sheave pulley assemblies and
cement them to the deck with a piece of wire inserted through each as an axle.
Intermediate Paint Work
Before installing the Side Walls, Roof, Dip Stick/Bucket, Rigging, and the Rear
deck, it is easiest to paint those components now in place. I recommend using
acrylic paints diluted with varying amounts of water or Rubbing Alcohol to
created worn or weathered results'
Car Deck:
A dilute mixture of tan, burnt umber, and brown should be brushed onto the Car
Deck. Black, with traces of orange and brown should be built up around the base
of the boiler and the Cylinders and the Hoisting Gear Box.
Boiler/Smoke Stack
A mixture of black, orange and a trace of brown should be applied to the Boiler
Cylinders
A similar mixture to that applied to the boiler should be applied to the
Cylinders, except the Connecting Rods, which should be natural metal.
Hoisting Gear Box System
Apply the same mixture as used on the Boiler and Cylinders, with predominately
black on the gears, with rust emphasis on the gear enclosure
Operator's Deck
The same colors used on the Car Deck are appropriate.
"A" Frame
This assembly can be left natural brass or natural silver, or painted black as
desired
Boom and Pulley System
A mixture similar to the one applied to the Boiler, Cylinders, and Gear Box, but
emphasis on orange and brown rust on the Boom and Gear Towers. Sheaves and
Pulley parts should be black. The Boom Base should be rusty with black grease
streaks. Paint the Dip Stick and Bucket the same colors.
Assembly (cont'd)
Add piping along and vertical from the boiler and run out to the "A" Frame front
end.( as shown in the drawings and photos)
Side Walls
CAREFULLY drill 2-56 size holes in the bottom of the three vertical supports on
each side assembly. If you feel squeamish about drilling causing them to split,
use a No. 62 or No. 63 drill bit and open the hole up gradually with a Swiss
file. Make each hole approx 1/4" deep. Insert a 2-56 Bolt approximately 1/4"
long into the rail jointer fitting on the sides of the Car Body, position the
Car Side in place and snug up the bolt, being careful to place one set of doors
in the inside bottom track and the other set into the outside track (If you
chose to build scribed wood sides, cement them to the Car Body sides). Cut three
1/8"X1/8" pieces long enough to make the distance from outside edges of Car
Sides 2" apart and the Roof will fit snugly over them. Don't forget to paint
them the color of the Car Sides.
Dip Stick/Bucket, Operator's Seat, Rigging Chains
Slip the Dip Stick between the sides of the Boom, Move it up and back until the
Rack is over the Gear Drive and move it to a position you like. Place a couple
of drops of Crazy Glue on the Rack with a tooth pick and glue the Rack at the
angle and distance through the Boom that looks best to you. Salvage one of the
seats from the motorcycles you cannibalized for the under body chain drive. Trim
away the pointy backrest, drill a hole in the side of the seat or cement a piece
of scrap stock to it, scrape away the paint on the side of the Boom, and cement
the seat in place. Paint it to match the Boom.
Drive Chains
1. Boom Traverse Drive - Take a piece of chain approximately 10" long, pick up
the model in your left hand (right hand if you're right handed), hold it
vertical, drape the chain over the front of the Boom Base Plate, move it over
the inside of the Pulley on the Car deck and down under the Operator's
Platform-Using a paintbrush handle or some such thing, move the chain over the
inside of the opposite Pulley and drop it under the Operator's Platform. Adjust
the length of the chain as necessary, put a healthy drop of white glue on one
end of the chain, repeat what you just did, put a healthy drop on the other end
of the chain and drop it under the opposite side of the Operator's Platform.
When it sets up, put a few drops of white glue around the front of the Boom Base
to hold the chain in place there, let it set up and use a paint brush and
water/detergent solution to wash away the excess and any drops on the Car Deck.
When everything is dry, touch up with black and silver paint.
2. Bucket Elevation Drive Chain - Bend a 3/4" piece of soft wire into a loop.
Slip the loop onto one end of a 12" section of chain. Slip the loop over the top
hook of the "ScRRatch Stuff" Block and Tackle assembly. Use pliers to squeeze
the top hook/loop together. Run the chain up to the Front Pulley on the Boom.
Loop the chain over the Front Pulley from the front and drop it down to the
Sheave of the Block and Tackle. Pass it through the pulley from the REAR and run
it up to the Pulley on the Front of the Boom. Pass it over the Pulley from the
Front of the Pulley, pass it over the two Pulley assemblies on the top of the
Boom, and drop it into the round tube at the rear of the Boom. (Put a drop of
"Crazy Glue" on the chain where it passes over the various Pulleys. When the
cement has set, trim the chain so that its' end falls straight into the tube and
put a drop of "Crazy Glue" into the tube to hold the chain in place.
Bucket "Pull Lever"
Bend a piece of soft wire into an "L" shape as shown on the drawing. Cement the
short end to the center of the back of the Bucket; cement the long end to the
right inside of the boom approximately1/8" above the bottom edge.
Final Touches
Figures are up to you, but they "dress up" the model. You can find suitable
people in 1/4" airplane kits (mechanics, and ground crew) A liberal supply of
hand tools, pick-axes, crow and pry bars, sections of line (rope) and chain and
buckets arrayed on the deck help too. (Note the sledgehammer leaning against the
Boom on the right side of the Boom Base Plate) and the dog standing on the deck
behind the Boom).
This is not a particularly easy model to make but it is a very rewarding one.
Also, as I said at the beginning, if you mess up anything, you can re-build it
very inexpensively.
PDF Drawing #
1
PDF Drawing # 2
PDF Drawing # 3
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